Pittsburghers and Buckeyes

     Ariel and Alice had left Pittsburgh Sunday evening after the wedding and went back to New York City. Amanda's flight back to Portland was Tuesday morning. It was time to go out on our own. We drove twice to Ohio the week surrounding Oct. 14, the day of Simone's Baby shower (see folder); once to the Rock 'n' Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland (see folder) on Tuesday, Oct. 10th, and once to Norwich and Navarre in the Ohio Amish Country  on Wed. Oct. 18th. The rest of our time was spent in Pittsburgh with Simone, Renna and on our own.  

     Leona and I had dinner with Simone and Ted at Harry and MC's place Thursday evening Oct. 12th.  The dinner was nice; manicotti with  sauce, bread, wine, salad and for dessert, chocolate birthday cake from MC's party. We sat at the table for three hours chatting and had a pleasant time.Ted's parents offered to let us stay in their home when we return the end of February; they will be on vacation though so we won't see them till they get back.

     That morning and afternoon was spent at the airbnb with a break for India buffet for lunch with Simone who was in town to get her body checked after Sunday's fender-bump from Alice.
      Simone was a great host taking us around to places, to their home, movies, malls, lunches, the Strip, and the Beaver courthouse area. Renna didn't have a flexible schedule to be with us. 

    We finally had a private dinner with Renna and Alex after being in Pittsburgh eleven days. When Renna and Alex returned from their  mini-honeymoon, we had a lovely evening at their apartment passing four hours easily chatting in the living room. Jake, a handsome large dog, definitely needs more space to stretch his legs.

Sunday Oct. 15

     Renna and Alex picked us up for Mexican dinner and ice cream. During the day, we had driven back to the Strip, for the third time, for Peruvian chicken lunch and to visit Amazing Books, a bookstore than wasn't amazing after all; it was pretty small. But on the way there on Liberty Street, we spotted a sci-fi comic book and DVD store. Leona got "Mannequin" a '87 film she loves, and I got three $2 pocket Signet Robert Heinlein novels and short stories: Revolt in 2100, The Day After Tomorrow, and Assignment in Eternity. 

        Our last Monday in Pittsburgh we had no    definite  plans and Simone and Renna were both working, so Leona and I returned to the outlet stores in the Waterworks mall to buy another suitcase to hold all the items we've been accumulating to bring back to Taiwan. I had a cheeseburger there at Five Guys and Leona found a Chinese restaurant across the busy road called Taipei! She had to wait for me to finish eating though because we needed a car to get across the busy thoroughfare.

     Since Simone and Ted were working that day, I suggested we  go to their home and make dinner for them. They agreed and we stopped off at the Giant Eagle at the Waterworks Mall to get ingredients. We drove up to Ambridge and let them relax as I made pasta, chicken Marsala with portobello mushrooms for dinner.  

    Out last meet-up with the girls was on Tuesday; we spend the day with Simone. Before lunch, we went to a AAA center that was supposed to handle driver license transitions but they couldn't handle mine. We picked up Leona   and had sushi for lunch in Pittsburgh. It was a pleasure having American style sushi; far more adventurous than traditional Asian sushi. Simone and I realized we were wearing the same color coordinated clothes; maroon and black. After lunch we drove to another DMV wasting a few hours to see if I could change my driver's license; I could not.  

     On Wednesday, our last day in Pittsburgh, with both girls working, Leona and I got in the Charger and drove back to Ohio, this time heading south towards the Amish Country. We crossed the Ohio River through the sliver of West Virginia that crops up between Pennsylvania and Ohio and passed through some raunchy industrial mining areas and a beautiful man made lake/reservoir as we headed to Old World Polish Pottery in Navarre a little town on the northeast fringe of Ohio's Amish Country. 
     At the crossroad to route 241 was an Amish grocery; we picked up some goodies before looking for the shop. It wasn't a shop  per se but an addition to a house on private land up a long gravel driveway. A young woman came out of the house and let us in. We had seen the pottery for triple the price in a Taiwan department store and purchased three of the colorful pieces; a spoon rest, a creamer, and a deviled-egg holder. 

     We didn't stay long in the pottery showroom for we had a date with Zane Grey in Norwich. We drove south on Interstate 77 about fifty miles near Cambridge. The National Road Zane Grey Museum was larger than we expected with many authentic artifacts and panoramas. Jerry Thompson greeted us, along with a seasoned matron guide and a visiting grad student from Kent State. Jerry wasted no time telling us the story of the "Father of the cowboy Western novel." He even handed us some authentic buckeyes. Because I knew a few facts about the author, Jerry flattered me. I had to admit I hadn't read any of Zane Grey's works until a few years ago when, while visiting Amanda, I saw a hard-cover set of his complete works (80 volumes) at a flea market in Portland, OR for $5 each."Look around," Jerry said. I did so and saw three or more sets of the very same series. Jerry explained that a publisher had bought the rights to Grey's works in 1939 and sold them in installments to mid-Western farmers, etc. Thanks to Robert Yenney, my friend and colleague from Dominican School in Taipei, for first mentioning Zane Gray, his favorite Western author.

Since then I have read three of his novels; the most famous Riders of the Purple Sage. He's also famous for Lone Star Ranger and 120 Hollywood films  based on his novels. There is even a rumor that The Old Man and the Sea was based on Grey, Hemingway having met Grey, the deep sea fisherman. Ernest admired Zane's fishing talent and Zane admired Ernest writing skill. Zane,  

though prolific, 

was rather shallow 

compared to his counterpart.
 The tour we were given at the museum included  a short VCR film about the man. When the guide offered to show us the Historic National Road panoramas, we went along for the ride.  Route 40 was the road that took settlers deep into native country through Ohio up to the

Mississippi. It is as famous as the iconic route 66 of the Southwest. It runs through Lancaster, too. As the "Road that helped build America", its 700 miles from Baltimore to East St. Louis is a legend for all the towns settled along its path. The restaurants along its Main Streets made me only think about how hungry I was. It was getting late and we had a special dinner waiting for us at 1101 Portland Street.

     Ashley, our airbnb host,  had mentioned a friend of hers who  started a Southern style catering business. Our mouths watered at the mention. We had been introduced to home style soul food in Savannah, GA when we visited years ago. Would her friend come to cook for us, I asked? Indeed she would, and so we arranged to have a farewell dinner at Ashley's 1101 Portland Street, the home that we had the attic floor in the past fifteen days.  

We got back to Pitts-burgh just in time to eat. Chef 

  Dominic was amazing. With the ladies sons, we had wine, fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, gumbo, cornbread; a meal that couldn't be beat! It was a fine way to say goodbye.

      After dinner, we drove to meet Simone at Renna and Alex's apartment to say goodbye. Originally, Simone was going to drive us to the airport to return our rental car and drive us back to the airbnb, but since we had decided to rent another car to drive to Dobbs Ferry and New York City the next day, she could drive home and get a good night's rest. It had been a busy two weeks for Simone and everyone.

     The Highland Park area around the 3,200 ft. Victorian on Portland Street had been changing, gentrifying. After its glory days as a home for middle management in the coal and steel industry, many of its Jewish residents had moved on, the buildings became dilapidated, too expensive to repair, and finally sold cheaply to new residents who have revitalized the area. 

Hanging With Amanda and Ariel

     The day after the wedding, Sunday, Amanda and Ariel with Alice were still in Pittsburgh. Renna and Alex left for a short honeymoon in the Amish country in Ohio until Tuesday. We woke up early to have breakfast at Pamala's in Squirrel Hill. There are a few Pamala's locations and Alice drove to the one in The Strip. We didn't have time to lose; I wanted to hear Mark Bray speak at the Postal Workers Union Hall at three o'clock. The restaurant is always busy for weekend breakfast with their delicious buttery pancakes so if we lost our turn we would miss them; Ariel and Alice arrived later and ate next door. 

Reynolds St. Entrance

     The weather had cleared up from an over night rain and the smell of ozone filled the air. We drove in three cars to Frick Park to stroll around. I would leave at two o'clock. I would drive the Dodge Charger to  the meeting and Alice could drive Ariel and follow Simone to a place she wanted to take them. We would meet up for dinner at a local diner in Ambridge with MC and Harry before Ariel and Alice had to return to New York . 

     The 644 acres (2.61 km) Frick is the largest of four municipal parks in Pittsburgh. With its steep ravines and mature woods relatively undisturbed, it forms a nature reserve of native plants and abundant wildlife. Owls, amphibians, wild turkey, fox, and many mammal species are found in the park, but we didn't see any; only a few people jogging or walking their dogs. 

 

    We were having such a nice walk and I hated to leave, but we had a nice few hours together. Simone planned to bring everyone to Old Allegheny City Historic District. There were shops and artisan exhibits there that she knew. Everyone would be interested, but first it was off to to get bubble tea, a Taiwan favorite, that was available at one particular place in Pittsburgh. 

     They got their bubble tea to go and hopped back in their cars, Alice's following Simone's. The trouble began at a stop light on a small hill. Alice reached behind in the back seat to get something and took her foot off the brake. The four by four that she had borrowed in New York rolled into  Simone's car hard enough impact and spill everyone's bubble tea. It was a shocking. Leona texted me that there was an accident but no one was hurt. When everyone calmed down, they drove on to the art colony.

     Monday was the last day for Amanda in Pittsburgh. Tuesday morning, she had to fly back to Portland for classes at the State University. A few weeks before, Amanda and I had texted about possible nature trips around Pittsburgh. We considered driving to the forest and falls around Morgantown West Virginia or to the Lake Erie Shore. We ended up doing neither because of the rainy weather. Leona had wanted to see the new "Blade Runner 2049" movie that wasn't playing in Taiwan theaters, yet. Simone suggested we have dim sum breakfast at a place she knew in Squirrel Hill and then walk a few blocks to see the film. Even Ted would join us after playing in his  Sunday morning hockey game. This cowboy from Brooklyn was having a wonderful time in a college-swing manor, like a saint in New York.

Baby Shower and Sports Day

Simone arranged to have her baby shower on October 14, six weeks early, so we could enjoy it while we were in Pittsburgh; the event to share advice and bring gifts is ordinarily a month before due date, in her case December 29th. Though there are different styles for the get-together, Simone decided hers would be for women only. I therefore, was welcome only to say hello at the conclusion. 

     Leona and I were picked up by Simone in the late morning and brought to their home in Ambridge. From there, we were driven to Harry and MC's home where the party was organized; Renna had gone early to help set up. We dropped Leona off and picked up Harry to have lunch in a tavern in  Ambridge. While we were there, we watched a Pitt football game on the big screens and chatted.

      The topic of discussion was baseball. I knew Vern Law, Danny Murtaugh, Bill Mazeroski, Bill Vernon, Roberto Clemente and others from my Topps Baseball Card Collection. Harry was impressed. I told him I liked the '61 Pirates because they beat the hated Yankees in the World Series. Ted and His dad chatted about football and hockey. I had given Ted a set of playing cards from the Heinz History museum with Penguin heroes but I knew none of them. Harry told me the story of Joe Namath, a famous New York Jet football player, a local from Beaver Falls, was admired by his female neighbors when he was a teenager; MC was one of them. 

     When it was time, the three of us men drove back to the ladies at the baby shower. As prescribed, we said hello towards the end. The party was beautiful with decorations and a buffet of delicious cold cuts and salads. MC revealed a beautiful Sesame Street baby blanket she had crocheted. I chatted with Ted's aunt and Simone's colleagues including one woman from Taiwan.I used the precious info about Namath to start a conversation with MC related to how my sister worked at a shop next to Bachelors Three, Namath's club in Manhattan, and got goosebumps when he passed by the store. She grinned. 

     When we were leaving, I was impressed to see my old 2004 Matrix still roadworthy with Renna behind the wheel. Leona would stay with  Simone, Jaisy and Lucy and be driven back to the airbnb. Harry stayed home as Ted drove me back to their home to rest a bit before the main event:  A Penguin hockey game.  

   The crowd at the hockey game was relatively calm although the Penguins won 4-3; it was too quiet for a team that had just won back-to-back Stanley Cups. We had a beer and some food and watched the LED television visuals, but it seemed so contrived and cheesy I couldn't get into it. The game itself was fun and exciting. Occasionally Ted and I chatted or I asked him a question about the rules but I don't think he ever saw me so quiet; I was paying attention to the game. 

      When Ted drove me back to the airbnb, I was tired from a busy day and a long walk up a hilly street to get the car. I fell asleep in bed and didn't wake up until Leona called me at 9 am. On Sunday morning, I was still buzzing from the crowd and had to ask my Wobbly friends, Ken and Marc, a few times to remind me what I was talking about. After a mug of coffee, I connected every thread. 

Road to Dobbs Ferry

     The road to Dobbs Ferry was long and winding. It was our intention from the start to visit Mark Stern and his wife, Hua-Yi; they had invited us to their home the year before when we visited New York City after Simone's wedding but commitments around town didn't afford us time to go there. 

     We first met Mark and Hua-Yi when they came to visit her family in Penghu and stopped off in Taichung before returning to the States. In June 2016, we met again in Downtown Brooklyn, had lunch in Junior's, and walked around Ft. Greene Park. 
    Mark was introduced to me on Facebook by Richard Singer, a mutual friend; they had gone to junior high and The Bronx High School of Science together. Richard and I were labor activists; Wobblies in NYC IWW GMB. Richard knew of Mark and our parallel histories-we were both high school teachers, recent retirees, married to women from Taiwan, parents, and open-minded progressives- and we were destined to meet. 
     In one way, however, we were quite different; he was a die-hard Yankee fan and I grew up liking the Dodgers; I guess that's normal since he's from The Bronx and I'm from Brooklyn. The Yankees were in a playoff with the Astros for the American League championship and the Dodgers had beaten the Cubs. I was hoping the Yankees would win so we could see a Dodger-Yankee World Series, but it was not to be. We watched the sixth playoff  game which the Yankees lost, but, fortunately, we had left town before they were eliminated; it would not have been a pretty picture.                

     Besides the wedding and baby shower in Pittsburgh, the only plan set in stone was our plane reservations. We left our time flexible in Pittsburgh around Simone and Renna's work schedules and, later, Renna and Alex's honeymoon trip. But our plans for the New York City leg of the journey was dictated by the changing schedules of the folk we hoped to see there.

     Originally,  I had decided we would spend one night in Hicksville, Long Island, near my Mom's cemetery and two nights in Marine Park, Brooklyn. My plan was to drive to Mark Stern in Dobbs Ferry and to see Jim Drieu and Selma near Hartford, CT but Stern said a Wed.-Thurs. visit was not good because his wife had to work and wouldn't be there.  We agreed to take Amtrak to NYC instead of driving and visit Kaplan saving Stern for the weekend as he wished. Stern even offered to drive us from Dobbs Ferry to Hicksville on Sunday but we couldn't cancel the reservation. 

On the road from Pittsburgh,
our favorite Amish treats

        That's when things got interesting. Six days before leaving for New York, Kaplan wrote  that he couldn't see us on Wednesday; something came up, so  I made reservations for Tuesday. When I told Simone and Leona, they were upset that I'd cut our stay in Pittsburgh short, so I changed the Amtrak tickets again to Thursday giving us one less day in NYC, three night with Kaplan. We would have to take Amtrak, the subway, Metro North, and the LIRR to get around town. The last straw was when Kaplan wrote he couldn't see us on Sunday and Monday evenings, either, though he didn't mention why we couldn't sleep over as planned.  I decided it was better to rent a car and not take Manhattan.  
     I had done very little research into the attractions near Dobbs Ferry; Mark said there was a lovely restaurant they wanted to treat us to on the Hudson River shore, and we could see the autumn foliage from there. That was all we knew. The GPS sent us across the crowded George Washington Bridge up the Henry Hudson  and Saw Mill River Parkways instead of over the new Tappen Zee Bridge, perhaps because the east bound southern span wasn't open to traffic yet; the west bound north span had opened just two months before. The old bridge was falling apart. 

     The Stern's home, in the rolling hills of the Hudson Valley, is a delightful wooden two-story colonial up a dead end. We felt safe leaving most of our luggage in our rental car. The first evening was our treat as the Sterns introduced us to Piccola Trattoria on nearby Cedar Street. Mark shared the fruit from the native paw paw tree growing in his backyard. It tasted like Taiwan shikya. We then returned to watch the Yankee Astro playoff.  The next day, Mark had plans to show us the lovely Rockefeller State Park 

Preserve and we took off to drive there when, in Tarrytown, I saw a sign for Washington Irving's residence. We knew we would be near Sleepy Hollow; I had mentioned a "Rocky Horror Picture Show" enactment there that we would miss by a few week, but the home of the author of "The Headless Horseman" and "Rip Van Winkle" had slipped his mind, too. Right there, we drove in and were treated to Sunnyside. The grounds reflected the Romantic movement in mid-19th century America and was quite charming. Situated along the Hudson with the Metro North train passing by, it was surprisingly uncrowded that Friday morning, but we had missed the tour. No problem. We strolled around the grounds and I even dared to enter the home through a left-open door for a private view. They were looking for me and I told them but declined to follow in my footsteps. 

The furnished rooms of Sunnyside, home   of Washington Irving.

We drove through Sleepy Hollow, the town renamed to capitalize on the notoriety from "The Headless Horseman" on our way to Rockefeller State Park Preserve. 32 miles (51 km) of carriage trails in the 1,552-acre (6.28 km) park, including  a 24-acre (97,000 m) Swan Lake, all once privately owned by the notorious oil tycoon.

     The park is quite a remarkable place; on a  perfectly dry sunny 74 degree day in late October! The dry fresh air made me miss the northeast. There is nothing like this in Taiwan.Unfortunately, because of the unusually warm weather, the autumn leaves had not changed colors yet; we missed seeing the park tree leaves in their glorious gold, orange, and red foliage. It was so wonderful to relax and stroll around. The stress of planning the New York leg of our trip melted away thanks to Mark Stern and Hua-Yi. They had something special planned for the evening: dinner at Half Moon. 

     From our table, we had a clear view of Manhattan 15 miles to the south and the Tappen Zee Bridge 5 miles north. The food in the Half Moon was scrumptious. We sat as the dusk turned to evening relaxing with friends who were so hospitable; we felt like we had known the Sterns for years. We wanted to stay but we had to be on our way. There was one last treat before we headed to Brooklyn for Saturday evening Szchuan dinner with Leona's library friends. 

The old Metro-North Station in Dobbs Ferry had been turned into a restaurant called Hudson Social. After a homemade breakfast of pancakes and coffee, we rested in Mark and Hua-Yi's home. They had some errands to do. Their son, Daniel, had a Mandarin class to attend and Mark went to exercise. When everyone was ready, Leona and I packed our luggage back into the car and followed them back to One High Street riverside to the newly remodeled Waterfront park. It was a perfect welcome back to New York away from the big city lights of Manhattan. Our stay in Dobbs Ferry made it clear to us that we had made the right choice, spending time with the right people, in our ever-changing New York itinerary.